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	<title>Buying Guide: Bolex H16 Inspection Checklist - Revision history</title>
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	<updated>2026-11-04T18:27:56Z</updated>
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		<title>EstherUrlus: Created page with &quot; === &#039;&#039;&#039;1. Model Identification &amp; Valuation&#039;&#039;&#039; ===  * &#039;&#039;&#039;Reflex (RX) vs. Non-Reflex:&#039;&#039;&#039; * Avoid &#039;&#039;&#039;Non-Reflex&#039;&#039;&#039; models unless they are under €100 (they are much harder to use for modern filmmaking and there are more lenses and accessories available for RX models) ** &#039;&#039;&#039;How to identify a Reflex model:&#039;&#039;&#039; *** Look for &#039;&#039;&#039;two shafts&#039;&#039;&#039; on the side: One for &quot;1 frame&quot; (with a red dot) and one for &quot;8 frames&quot; (for the hand crank). *** Check the &#039;&#039;&#039;Viewfinder&#039;&#039;&#039;: Earlier mode...&quot;</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.filmwerkplaats.org/index.php?title=Buying_Guide:_Bolex_H16_Inspection_Checklist&amp;diff=829&amp;oldid=prev"/>
		<updated>2026-10-05T11:27:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Created page with &amp;quot; === &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;1. Model Identification &amp;amp; Valuation&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; ===  * &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Reflex (RX) vs. Non-Reflex:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; * Avoid &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Non-Reflex&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; models unless they are under €100 (they are much harder to use for modern filmmaking and there are more lenses and accessories available for RX models) ** &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;How to identify a Reflex model:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; *** Look for &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;two shafts&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; on the side: One for &amp;quot;1 frame&amp;quot; (with a red dot) and one for &amp;quot;8 frames&amp;quot; (for the hand crank). *** Check the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Viewfinder&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;: Earlier mode...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;New page&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
=== &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;1. Model Identification &amp;amp; Valuation&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Reflex (RX) vs. Non-Reflex:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; * Avoid &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Non-Reflex&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; models unless they are under €100 (they are much harder to use for modern filmmaking and there are more lenses and accessories available for RX models)&lt;br /&gt;
** &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;How to identify a Reflex model:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*** Look for &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;two shafts&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; on the side: One for &amp;quot;1 frame&amp;quot; (with a red dot) and one for &amp;quot;8 frames&amp;quot; (for the hand crank).&lt;br /&gt;
*** Check the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Viewfinder&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;: Earlier models have a smaller 6x or 10x magnification.&lt;br /&gt;
*** &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Base Type:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; Determine if it has a &amp;quot;Flat Base&amp;quot; or the older rounded base.&lt;br /&gt;
*** &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Early Reflex Models:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; Should feature a &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Variable Shutter Lever&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;.  If not you have one of the first RX models in your hand. Dont pay to much!&lt;br /&gt;
** &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Premium Models (SB/SBM):&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; These feature a larger &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;13x viewfinder&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; and a different &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Filter Holder&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; system. Thes camera’s have a Bajonet fitting for the lens, and not a C-mount turret. The SBM has the option for a magazine&lt;br /&gt;
** &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Magazine option&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;: If you want a RX spring Bolex that can handle a 120m/400ft film magazine check if the camera has a flat top with a hatch. Its either the RX 5 (c-mount turret) or the SBM model (bajonet)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;2. The Spring Motor Test (Critical)&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Consistent Speed:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; Wind the spring fully and let it run it on 24 fps until it stops (this should take close to 28 sec. on 24 fps or 672 frames in total). Never ever run a spring-driven Bolex at 64 fps without film loaded. The lack of resistance places excessive strain on the gear teeth when the mechanism comes to its (abrupt) stop when the spring runs out.&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;The &amp;quot;Stop&amp;quot; Test:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; The camera should maintain its speed and then &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;stop abruptly&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Warning Sign (Slowing Down):&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; If the motor slows down gradually before stopping, the spring is misaligned. This is a rather common issue with most Bolex spring-driven cameras. A CLA should solve this problem but it means your camera needs to be opened-up completely!&lt;br /&gt;
** &amp;#039;&amp;#039;Result:&amp;#039;&amp;#039; This causes &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;overexposure&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; (fading to white) and inconsistent frame rates at the end of a shot. This is a mechanical issue, not &amp;quot;old age.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;3. Optics &amp;amp; Prism Inspection&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Prism / Glass Block:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; Open the film gate and inspect the internal glass block / prism. It has to be spotless, since you are filming through this glass block.&lt;br /&gt;
** Check for &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Fungi (mold), scratches, or heavy fingerprints&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
** &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Caution:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;DO NOT&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; touch the glass surface during inspection; use a flashlight to peer through. The coating of the glass block / prism is very sensitive for the acid of our hands / fingers and burns a permanent mark.&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Viewfinder Dust:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; Some dust in the viewfinder is normal and will not affect the image on the film.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;4. Mechanical Integrity&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Turret Stability:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; The rotating lens turret should be &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;flat and firm&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;. It should not be &amp;quot;wobbly&amp;quot; or have any play when locked.&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Auditory Check:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; The camera should hum smoothly. If it sounds &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;rough, grinding, or metallic&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;, it likely needs a CLA (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust).&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Speed Dial:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; Test the camera at various speeds (12, 24, 32, 48, 64 fps). You should hear a distinct change in the motor&amp;#039;s pitch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;5. Functionality &amp;amp; Controls&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;T-Mode (Time):&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; Set the camera to &amp;quot;T&amp;quot;. The gate/shutter should &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;stay open&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; as long as the trigger is pressed towards P (picture).&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;M-Mode (disengaging the spring):&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; Switch between &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; (disengage spring) and &amp;quot;M&amp;quot; (spring engaged). The lever should feel responsive and engage easily.&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Diopter (Eyepiece) Adjustment:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; Ensure the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;oculaire&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; (eyepiece) rotates smoothly and allows you to sharpen the image for your eyesight.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>EstherUrlus</name></author>
	</entry>
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